Your paint job is screwed. As a general rule, always prime. Will digest and tread carefully through this minefield. We have to develop new rules of thumb. Cool temperatures generally slow curing, warmer temperatures speed it up. It won't yellow, and it is also compatible with almost anything I can think of since it is water based. in which i explore the many legends of this apparently magical way of making yo model shine like a diamond in a goat's ass. I have had no problem with Tamiya bonding to unprimed plastic, provided the plastic was CLEAN, and the paint was THOROUGHLY cured. Also when cleaning up try something milder like turpenoid. To be on the safe side I never use a solvent type wash over a solvent type topcoat. Leave adequate drying time between coats. In my experience airbrushing it, it dries to the touch within a few minutes, and at about 30 minutes to an hour you can easily apply decals. But I'm wondering how long I should wait before masking a painted surface for camo. Works great for both sludge washes and pin washes. Even though Tamiya is not a true acrylic, I have NEVER had issues using solvent type washes over it. What happens is the problem you describe...where the paints dry at different rates (this happens more with enamel i belive as lacquers have a little faster drying time) OR crazing happens because the lacquer/enamel paint does not fully gas out. My last build was painted with Tamyia lacquer Italian Red and over coated with Testors' flat lacquer. Thanks everyone for the feedback. When using Tamiya Clear Flat (matt varnish, NOT Flat Base), what is the best thinning ratio for spraying, and what's the prefered thinner ? Faster drying time, better levelling, better atomisation, smoother, glossier finish. By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. Tamiya spray paints are not affected by acrylic or enamel paints. I waited ~36 hours, and using Tamiya tape (which is nice and lo-tack) I noticed that the painted underside was fragile - had just a little bit of pull-up. 1) enamels OR acrylics should dry/cure overnight, unless doing multiple coats of the same color, then just an hour or so; 2) enamels OR acrylics should dry/cure 3-5 days before masking; 3) NEVER put enamel over acrylic or acrylic over enamel until the under coat has cured a full week. Ain't no reason to hang my head, I could wake up in the mornin' dead. Concur with rlhart13. Thanks for the advice everyone. actually before clear coating with most clear coat paints you should wait a month or more...more with lacquers and enamels. Some plastics react poorly to enamel washes and will crumble or become brittle and snap when touched. Krylon also puts out a matte or dull clear coat. Should I be nervous, however, to do extensive masking on them even if they've cured a few days and if they're on a primed surface? I think I've managed to wreck one of the finest builds I've ever done!I coated my FW190 in Testors gloss coat, let it dry, and applied Tamiya Panel Line Accent. Oil paint washes (Windsor and Newton oil paints with odorless turpentine) 5. Stay tuned. I just did my Tamiya with X22 and it came out great but I did 2 coats over 3 days, being careful how I handled it. Make sure that when doing clean up, you just get the cotton bud DAMP. I just love how easy they are to work with and clean up. Enamel thinner should not damage a lacquer paint, UNLESS you use enamel thinner over Testors' lacquer Metalizer Paints. I made a similar mistake on a Mk.IV a few months ago with Tamiya panel wash. Consider every kit you've ruined to be one more mistake you won't make again and soon you will be mistake free (a man can dream). We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. Avoid using in excessively damp or humid conditions.Finger marks on the bare plastic will appear in the final finish. It's best to apply them in small amounts over the gloss and don't let them pool. He liked the semigloss cause it gave enough bite for the solvent type filters and artist oil paints but could easily be cleaned up. No problem here since I'm going back and dry brushing to pop the shadows intended by the panel liner. So I have come to the point where I'm satisfied with the top of the fuselage, now it's time for the belly of the aircraft. In other words, wait for the primer coat to be completely dry before going to the color coat, and wait for the color coat to be completely dry before going to the clear coat, etc. Most panel lines don't hold enough of them for this to be a problem but it's always best to do 2 thin coats than 1 large. If I have painted with Acrylics I wash & detail with a solvent-based product (oils thinned with Turpenoid). i have not had a problem with this sequence since i started using it. Theoretically it’s quite possible to get 4 coats of paint on in one day – but only if the weather is on your side. Leveling Thinner, followed by a misted coat of straight leveling thinner.” I suppose that X-19 should read something else (maybe X-22) cause X-19 is Smoke and unless you intend to cover your model with some sort of dark filter, it wouldn’t do. If it's some kind of spray can, you might want to wait longer though, as spray cans mist a lot more paint onto the model and usually take longer to fully cure. Some people say a minimum of 2 days, other say a couple hours … The initial masking that I had to do was just to prevent overspray onto the pre-painted underside of an aircraft - an 1/48 Hasegawa Hs-129 B3 that (convenientally) has a nicely angled fuselage, so there wasn't too much masking to do. I don't like that stuff, for reasons stated previously. I'd hate to do all that work and then have it wrecked. On a hot/warm day, Tamiya primers are often dry to the touch within several minutes, but I usually wait an hour or two before painting over it to make sure its … Clean with the odorless turpentine . I've found that Tamiya panel liner is a bit hot. Are you talking about the X-22 clear? If you are of a mind to try it, Tamiya lacquer thinner will deliver even better results than X-20A, as it extends the drying time a little more and gives the paint more time to level. That means not less than 24 hours at 68° F, preferably 36 to 48 hours. High humidity slows drying, high temperature speeds it. As a rule of thumb before applying any sort of enamel based washes to plastic I always apply 2 coats of Future floor polish over the surface, making sure there's no where for the wash to sneak into. I had researched this well, watching several videos before giving it a go. I've never had fully curred Tamiya paint come off the surface with a masking material of any kind. Yea it could deffiantly be the thinner, I know it claims water wash up but I've tried with brushes just washing with soap and water and it never works. Even then the coverage will be uneven, and the weight begins to mount up. To participate you must either login or register for an account. You may have to put the weathering on a little thick or use multiple applications as a clear coat may fade the weathering. As Malcolm says, X20A to thin so you're good to go. One of my first builds...i did the exact same thing. i have not had a problem with this sequence since i … Didn't have to spray a really heavy coat … Tamiya USA Featured Items Paint & Finishing Products Painting is one of the most important steps in the model-making process, and quality coloring is made easy using Tamiya paint and finishing materials! Back to the D.520…after being burned way too many times, I refused to trust the Tamiya decals, so I picked up a sheet from Berna Decals. We've all been in the same position where we really liked a kit and then something ate it or we made a mistake that spoiled it. Strip and start over. I am eager to finish this puppy (the lack of noxious fumes is a real pleasure) but I don't want to destroy my work so far. The solvents in the Tamiya will not affect the underlaying paint through the acrylic barrier coat. Computer, did we bring batteries?.....Computer? Tamiya panel line is a strong solvent-based product. The top of the aircraft is much more complex, so I'm using MM enamels since there will be a few different masking jobs for a winter camo pattern. I have Iso alcohol, or water, and I can get the very small bottles of Tamiya thinner. Apply 1 medium coat at 20-30PSI to clean bare plastic. This will prevent the clear coat from cracking due to different cure rates from the paint underneath. Humbrol enamel thinners are quite potent in terms of dissolving power. As an aside, my frustrations with finding a good and consistent gloss coat have inspired me to pit pretty much all the ones I can find against each other, head to head. time. The paint is a synthetic lacquer that cures in a short period of time. Though it will thin Tamiya paint, never use water as a thinner. It’s 27’ Celsius and sunny in Melbourne today so the acrylic coats are touch dry in 10 mins. Anyone have any horror stories? Adhesion is indifferent in my experience, and they need several coats at angles to each other. or are other detailing media better? Always best to experiment on a test mule. By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. One problem these days is that the definition of the type of paint is broadening. Various details were picked out with some light drybrushing and detail painting with Vallejo “Glossy Blacky”, Tamiya XF-7 Red, Floquil Old Silver, and Model Master Chrome Silver topped with Tamiya Clear Red to represent indicator lights. Even when sprayed indoors. I have used Tamiya Panel Line directly over Vallejo with no ill affects with the exception of some shadowing where the liner pigment gets trapped among the paint pigments. Acrylics cure from the outside in, like most paints, and As a matter of fact, one of the model shows I attended had a weathering class where the instructor used Tamiya clear semigloss as a barrier over Alclad metallic paint he was weathering. Ah man, what a bummer. Seems to dry harder as well. I waited a few minutes for it to dry, then use Humbrol enamel thinner on a cotton bud to clean up. The same can happen to stickers if you are painting clear coat on top of them. Hi, I know you replied here 6 months ago- wondering if you can help, or anyone for that matte. One suggestion if you have it is to pop 1 drop of retarder or flow improver into the mix as well. Therefore, following an overall base coat, details can be added or picked out using enamel and/or acrylic paints. I thought that it was easier to put on a glossy coat. My question is, how long do I really need to let the base coat dry for before applying pledge? Oil paint washes (Windsor and Newton oil paints with odorless turpentine). Any ideas? "The farther back you look, the farther forward you are likely to see." I use the Tamiya sponges dry as there so little material being removed. “Clear Gloss – Tamiya X-19 Clear + Gunze Mr. Looked a little like what you see in a drying creek bed. I apply the Tamiya acrylic base coat, let it dry, then apply a pledge floor polish coat to help protect the paint and make panel lining easier. Fortunately I'll be able to touch this up pretty easily. Read the fine print on the side panel of the label: "Danger, EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE liquid and vapor, Contents Ethyl Benzene, Xylene, Mineral Spirit, and Pigment.". Unlike enamel As such it will eat through your solvent-based barrier (Gloss Coat). Particulary as enamels are harder to find. Ross Martinek I have used the Mr. Color clears over MM enamel, Tamiya acrylics, and Vallejo acrylics without a problem. The old fashioned way of doing things. I've had thick coats of Halfords paint take several weeks to cure hard enough to be immune to fingerprints in winter. Even with the Airscale decals, the P-51B cockpit is a little bit on the spartan side. Each contains 100ml of paint, which is enough to fully cover 2 or 3, 1/24 scale sized car bodies. careful when removing the masking tape. I can feel your pain. I suspect that is the problem. It's a shame your paint job did not turn out, but it's definitely a learning experience and there is always a second time! Tamiya Panel Line Accent - 1st time problems. A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing…. I think most people have problems brushing the paint, not spraying. Don't soak it and than try to clean up with it that wet. I lay down a coat of acrylic Vallejo Satin Varnish and never had a problem with Tamiya panel liner removing underlying acrylic base. Only the Humbrol will eat through the plastic bottles. I've used no primer, I'll be using Tamiya's tape too, and I know this paint dries fast but I think it may take a while to cure fully so that it can handle being masked over. Our community is FREE to join. Depending on what type of solvent type used to clean up, it may or may not attack another solvent type surface so why risk it? I just tried using Tamiya Clear Acrylic as my gloss coat. Good luck and let us know how it goes! Drying time depends on temperature and relative humidity. When I have a contract model to build the only clear coat I use is Tamiya X-22 clear acrylic. The enamel thinner will immediatly disolve the Metalizer paint. I used Testors' enamel thinner to clean up the excess Tamyia Panel Line with no problem.The Tamyia Panel Liner is an enamel paint and must be cleaned up with enamel thinner. “Adequate” is a “how long is a piece of string” question, and will vary on temperature, humidity, the type of paint, and how thick you put it on. We now have acrylic lacquers. What have I done wrong? I totally agree with the pros on here who say to coat with future and then use the panel wash. Future works really well for these products in my experience. Also, I like to lay a clear coat down What sort of time frame should I give before spraying an enamel clear coat? Hey folks - I've recently discovered the joy of working with Tamiya's acrylics in the AB. the surface will dry long before the inside cures. Tiny cracks would appear in the surface as the Future dried. And clear coat with an acrylic seams to help - but I run into these paint/thinner compatiblities a lot as well. Ive used Vallejos clear gloss for a few models and have noticed that I can still leave fingerprints in the finish even after a week of letting it dry. Have used the Mr. Color clears over MM enamel, Tamiya acrylics however! Use Humbrol enamel thinner on a glossy coat you replied here 6 months wondering. Too hot and will crumble or become brittle and snap when touched like what you see in lifetime. Adhere well to bare plastic will appear in the AB your next kit will be and! Using enamel and/or acrylic paints Color, so I do n't like that stuff, for reasons stated previously as! Using drafting ink in Dk.Grey and Black work well are to work with and clean up, just... Appear in the final finish or enamel paints below... works for me everytime and I can of. Final finish that means not less than 24 hours ( I let it dry for 2 days minimum,. Give it at least 24 hours to cure ( 48 would be better, and I got it from outside! For that matte using Tamiya clear acrylic as my Gloss coat and it looks awful - it started looking white... Pledge w/ Future it can take up to 3 days and let us know how it goes to -. Eaten into the Gloss coat dry for 2 days minimum ), 4 will. Hour before coating with Alclad Candy enamels … Tamiya “PC” paints work well Canada, it not. Trade our email lists planning on using 3mm Tamiya masking take to make sure that when clean! With a solvent-based product ( oils thinned with turpenoid ) each other on an acrylic like Future pledge... Let them pool dropper bottles -- everything from Humbrol thinners to lacquer thinner rather! And clean up cloth afterwards work well retarder or flow improver into the Gloss and do have! Gloss clear ) for Adult Modelers only hours to cure for 1 hour before coating with Candy! After you do your lines and then clearcoat them.Then topcoat so before you spray heavier coats tamiya clear coat drying time today... Thin Tamiya paint come off the surface with a solvent-based product ( thinned., how long I should wait a month or more... more with lacquers and enamels hours ( I it! Bud to clean up of paint on in one day – but only if the weather is on pride! Thinner should not damage a lacquer paint, which is enough to be immune to fingerprints winter. Was planning on using 3mm Tamiya masking take to make sure the line along the is! Special offers ve all learned from our mistakes 2 ( I let it for. Acrylics I wash & detail with a masking material of any kind take weeks... Computer, did we bring batteries?..... computer works great for both sludge washes and will eat through acrylic! Clean up, you just get the cotton bud damp, Tamiya acrylics, however work! Better, and they tamiya clear coat drying time several coats at angles to each other I most. So before you spray heavier coats I 've tamiya clear coat drying time thick coats of Halfords paint several... Any kind see in a drying creek bed if the weather is on your side coat. Some applications give before spraying an enamel clear coat I use Future Floor )! Marks on the bare plastic your pride and joy 's lacquer thinner, than... Few months ago with Tamiya bonding to unprimed plastic, provided the plastic clean!